Lamb with Feta-Mint Pesto

1. Toast pine nuts in a dry skillet over medium heat, tossing frequently. When nuts are barely golden and quite fragrant, remove from heat and pour into a food processor or blender along with mint, garlic, feta, salt, and pepper. (You will probably need very little salt, as feta is quite salty). Process in pulses, adding olive oil in a slow stream, until you have a spreadable paste.

2. If your roast came covered in netting, cut the netting off. Spread lamb out flat and spread the pesto or stuffing across the entire surface as evenly as possible. Roll lamb up, season outside with salt and pepper, and tie securely with butcher's twine.

3. Heat about 1 Tbsp of oil in a Dutch oven or heavy saucepan with lid over medium heat. When oil is warm, add lamb and brown on all sides. When lamb is brown, remove with tongs and set aside on a plate.

4. If there is no oil left in the bottom of the pan, add another tbsp. of oil and heat. Add onion and sauté until golden.

5. Add wine (or half the chicken broth, if not using wine) and raise heat to medium-high. Deglaze pan, removing any browned bits from the bottom of the pan with a wooden spoon. Bring liquid to a boil and reduce about halfway. Add remaining chicken broth and reduce about 1/3 more.

6. Return lamb to pan and turn heat as low as possible. Cover pan. Braise for about ninety minutes, or until lamb is extremely tender.

7. When lamb is cooked, remove meat from cooking vessel and put on a serving platter under some foil or a towel (to keep it warm). Strain cooking liquid by running it through a colander into a bowl, then return it to the pan. Skim any fat you can off the top.

8. Turn heat to high. Add mushrooms, if using. Reduce liquid halfway. Serve lamb immediately, with sauce on the side. Any available mint leaves make a nice garnish.

Serves 6. This goes beautifully with mashed potatoes and most green vegetables, especially asparagus.